You Should Teach Your Puppy Proper Chewing Behavior

Many believe the longer a pup is allowed to stay with her mother and siblings, the better she will behave. It seems that puppies younger than eight weeks--who are taken from their mother--exhibit a more aggressive form of chewing and biting over those pups which are separated after the two-month mark.

Pups learn from the day they are born what is expected of them. Most pups find their mother is very tolerant of being chewed and gnawed on. However, as the pup grows and those sharp little teeth start coming in, the mother dog starts setting the limit on how much nipping she will tolerate, especially if she has a large litter using her for a chew toy! The mother dog will usually get up and leave the area which will eventually teach the little squirts to be gentle with her.

This is usually when the pups start rough housing and playing with their litter mates. Nothing is more enjoyable than watching a pile of pups roll, tumble, and clumsily play with each other. Nevertheless, it is important to understand what is taking place during this time. What looks like good old puppy fun to us is truly a necessary part to a dog?s development. During this time with siblings, puppies are learning their place in the ?pack.? They are figuring out who is the boss, and they are testing their limits with each other.

When a puppy nips or chews on their sibling too hard, they are shocked when their sibling lets out a yelp. One of two things usually occurs at this point. The hurt sibling will either fight back and nip their sibling in return even harder, or the hurt pup will refuse to play with the biter any longer. Both of these approaches work to teach pups how to interact. When pups are taken from their mother and litter mates too soon, they miss out on this much needed character and personality training.

If your puppy is chewing everything in site, it can be very frustrating. Who wants to come home to find an expensive pair of shoes torn apart or feathers from pillows floating in the air? I know of one particular couple who came home to find their entire couch shredded down to the springs. Their two pups were snoozing in the midst of all the mess oblivious to their naughty deed. Also, it is hard for children and adults to be around a puppy who thinks that fingers, toes and pant legs are an invitation for teething and biting. Situations like this are why many pups find themselves banned to the outdoors, or locked in a crate for hours on end, while their owners are at work.

It is important to understand that teething is as natural to a puppy as teething is to a human infant. It is just a fact of life. You cannot expect your puppy to not want to chew. It helps her teeth come through the gums, and it also promotes the development of her adult teeth under the gums. Puppies see no differentiation between a bone and a hairbrush. Both serve the purpose to a puppy. In fact, most puppies will sometimes seek out items that have their owners scent if they are having separation anxiety. So, it is important that you teach your pup from day one proper chewing behaviors. If not, your puppy will assume everything in the home is at her disposal whenever it suits her.

The best advice is to go out and purchase your puppy some chew toys. These toys should be mentally stimulating to your pup. If not, your pup will soon tire of them and return to the piano leg! Some chew toys can even be purchased which have treats inside. These treats take some work to get to. Your pup can spend hours figuring out how to chew on these toys in the right manner to reach the yummy inside. Once your puppy has learned there are items in her home which provide her with a snack, she will tire of your shoes, furniture and clothing. It is good to stock up on the chew toys which seem to stimulate your pup and occupy her time the most. You should only leave one or two of these out at a time. You should also rotate the toys to ensure she doesn?t get bored.

The important thing to remember about chew toys is that you should not purchase ones that have a hidden bell or other device which can pose as a choking hazard. You should also avoid toys that have been chemically treated.

When your pup gets overly rambunctious and starts nipping and chewing on you, you should handle the situation like her mother and litter mates would. This is especially important if you have a pup which was taken from its mother and siblings rather early. When your pup starts nibbling on your person, or clothing, you should let out a noise that lets her know it hurt. This is not a problem if she has actually nipped at your skin! But, you should also put on your acting hat and let out a yelp if she is pulling on your shoe laces or pant leg. When you do this, it will usually startle her. You should immediately walk away from your dog, or leave her in the area alone.

It will take consistency and repetition for your puppy to get the message that what she is doing is wrong. However, if she is a slow learner, you can let out your ?yelp? and put her in her crate. You shouldn?t be harsh about the manner, as this will only confuse her. Once she is in her crate, she may turn on the tears and start trying to manipulate you with her whiney groans of dissatisfaction. When this occurs, you should never take her out. Wait until she has stopped her tantrum and then release her. When you let her out, be affectionate with her and let her know all is well. You should not hold a grudge, as your dog is incapable of understanding why you are angry. Also, when you place her in her crate, it should only be for a few minutes . . . unless she is having a full-blown tantrum. Then you should wait until she quiets. If you are consistent with this approach, your pup will soon learn that when she nips, chews or bites she will have to go to time out.

Puppies love to be handled and may affectionately want to play with you like she would her litter mates. It is perfectly fine for a pup to want to lick or even playfully hold your fingers in her mouth as you play. This is normal, and a form of bonding. However, any form of aggression or pressure should be promptly discouraged. Puppies usually learn by four months what is appropriate in regards to chewing . . . if their owners are consistent with training.

About the author:
Author Ian White is founder of Dog-Breeders.biz. Those seeking dogs can locate and match with appropriate breeders. Dog-Breeders.biz automates the matching of dogs for sale with dog wanted entries, with daily email notifications. Dog lovers and breeders can find more information on the website at: http://www.dog-breeders.biz

View the original article here

Proper Dog Care

The most basic area of dog care is feeding. Unfortunately, many dog owners believe that as long as their dog is being given enough food, everything's ok. Too many dogs suffer from brittle bones, bad teeth and joint problems due to being fed the wrong kind of food and therefore not receiving the nutrients that are necessary for them to grow and maintain healthy bones, muscles and teeth. Foods that contain artificial colorants and preservatives often lead to allergies developing and feeding a dog on raw meat alone simply won't cover his daily calcium needs.

A dry food that's specially formulated to cover the nutritional needs of your dog depending on his age and level of activity is always the best choice. Cheap foods may seem like a good alternative but are often the most expensive choice in the long run. Consider that the dog will generally need more of the cheaper varieties as much of what's in these foods is 'padding' and that the padding will just lead to him having more bowel movements than would otherwise be necessary.

Grooming is an important area of your dog's care. All dogs, regardless of their coat type, should be groomed at least once a week. Obviously, some breeds will need daily grooming but even flat coated breeds, like Rottweilers and Labradors should be given weekly grooming sessions.

During the grooming session, utilize the time to check for any other health problems that may be affecting your dog. His skin should be checked for signs of sores or dryness; his ears should be checked for inflammation or pus; his legs and tail should be checked for any damage; and his body should be checked for unexpected lumps and bumps.
______________________________________________
To Get Your Free Ebook and More Dog Care Tips, Please

See Aki's Blog At:

http://www.dog-treats-n-dog-care-tips.com/category/dog-care/

_______________________________________________

If fleas or ticks are found on the body, these should be treated immediately. Ticks can be removed by covering the body in Vaseline so that the tick comes to the surface to breath; fleas can be dealt with by using special preparations available from your local pet shop or veterinary surgery.

Regular exercise is, of course, important to your dog who should be walked at least once a day, preferably twice. Don't just stick to roads as your dog will enjoy being able to run and play, and vary your route so that he doesn't become bored by his exercise.

Get to know your dog's routines. That way, if you notice any ongoing changes you'll be able to contact your vet for advice. It's always better to make one call too many than to ignore a problem because they rarely disappear without treatment.

******************************************
Copyright (c) 2005 Aki Desorcy

Aki Desorcy is the Author of http://www.dog-treats-n-dog-care-tips.com/
Visit Today And Get A Free Ebook From Aki.

******************************************

View the original article here

Comment on Leash Training Your English Bull Mastiff Dog by Advice on Dog Training – 2c Leash Training Your English Bull Mastiff Dog 11

Why Dogs Pull on the Leash

Pulling on the leash is actually a very common problem with dogs in general, not just for Mastiffs. A dog might pull for several reasons. Most often it is only because they are very excited. Allowing the dog to settle down before walking can often stop the leash pulling.

Sometimes, because of the dog pack mentality, a dog assumes leadership over its owner as if he were the leader of the pack. Therefore, the dog must be trained as to who the master is. The owner must establish him or herself as the leader of the pack. Failure to do so will result in ineffective training of any kind.

How to Leash Train

The first step is to train your English Bull Mastiff to sit still while you put the leash around his neck. Mastiffs love to spend time with their owners and they become very excited. Training your dog to be calm while preparing to go for a walk is an important step to leash training.

You can put toys or treats in your pocket to encourage your Mastiff to remain near your side as you walk. If he loses his concentration because a cat or another dog is nearby, you can change direction and coax him with a treat to get his attention back.

The idea is to get your puppy to be aware of you and your body so he will walk beside you and not wander or pull on the leash. If he begins to wander off or pull, stop walking. The collar will tighten and he will have to stop and turn and look at you. He will probably be confused at first as to why you are stopping. Coax him back to you and try walking together again.

At times you may need to give a gentle tug on the leash to get your puppy’s attention and to remind him that you are in charge. Never jerk harshly on the leash as this can cause damage to your dog’s trachea. You only want to get his attention, not frighten or harm your puppy.

Be consistent and persistent when leash training your English Bull Mastiff dog. Always, always praise him for his obedience. Mastiffs love nothing more than to please their owners, so praise goes a long way. Be patient, firm, and kind as you will get the desired results.

Leash training is so important, especially with large dogs. Failure to do so can lead to all sorts of problems, especially if they get off the leash around young children or other dogs. A well trained English Bull Mastiff is a joy to own and to be around.

Sam Daniels is a dog trainer and enthusiast and, for a limited time, is offering his extensive Mastiff Care Secrets course free of charge. It is jam-packed full of must-have information for Mastiff owners! To learn more about Mastiff care just go here http://www.YourMastiffAndYou.com

Sam Daniels is a dog trainer and enthusiast and, for a limited time, is offering his extensive [http://www.yourmastiffandyou.com]Mastiff Care Secrets course free of charge. It is jam-packed full of must-have information for Mastiff owners! Learn more about   Mastiff Care Now!

Technorati Tags: Dog Training, Dog Training Advice, Dog Training Tips, Leash Training, Mastiff, Mastiff Training, Dog-Training-Advice.com, John Hocking

You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

View the original article here

Introduce Your Puppy To New Situations... And Ensure Good Behaviour For The Rest Of Her Life

An unsocial dog will attack other dogs, children, vets, and even you.

The things that startle dogs often surprise their owners. Hats, balloons, garden statues, and other mundane things that seem to pose no threat. To your dog, however, it is an unknown. If you are a subdued person, your dog might show fear around a bubbly extrovert. Basically, any situation or object your dog is not accustomed to can create fear and stress in her.

Cornell University College of Vet Medicine suggests that the socialization period lasts up to about 12 weeks (3 months) of age.

So it is best if the socialization process begins when the dog is a puppy. This is a key learning time for dogs, so they become socialized more quickly. However, even older dogs that were not socialized as puppies can reach that confident, relaxed state. Socializing a dog that is more than one year old may take a little longer, but the results are rewarding.

Socializing a dog is a very simple process: take the dog to as many different places as you can. Your dog will pick up on your body language and follow your lead, so it is important for you to act confident and relaxed, especially when your dog hesitates. While you are walking about, stop every so often to pet your dog and talk to her in a happy voice. Naturally, feeding her a treat or two will give her a positive association with the environment.

Here are some quick ideas to try to give your puppy confidence.

Invite friends to meet her. This will help her get used to unfamiliar people.

Take her to the shopping mall, into the park, school play areas to experience new environments.

Introduce the puppy to anything you expect her to use daily - the yard, her leash, stairs.

Since your goal is to give your dog confidence, not traumatize her, never force your dog to accept a person or situation. Respect her feelings, and try again later.

While you are out and about, remember that you are your dog's guardian. Keep an eye out for excited children running towards your dog. A good way to handle this kind of situation is to stop the kids verbally about 10 feet from your dog. Explain to them that your dog is just getting used to new places and new people. Ask them to approach quietly and one at a time so that your dog learns that children are nothing to be afraid of. Letting the children feed your dog a treat is sure to help her learn to accept these high-energy, enthusiastic strangers.

Properly socializing your puppy will ensure the best traits come out in your new pet and you and your pet enjoy your life together.

About the author:

Written by NS Kennedy.

Best Pet Health Information is a resource which will help you find infomation, hints and tips to keeping your dog happy and healthy. http://www.best-pet-health.info

Copyright ? 2005 Best-Pet-Health.info. All rights reserved.

View the original article here

Comment on Leash Training Your English Bull Mastiff Dog by Advice on Dog Training - 3d Leash Training Your English Bull Mastiff Dog

Why Dogs Pull on the Leash

Pulling on the leash is actually a very common problem with dogs in general, not just for Mastiffs. A dog might pull for several reasons. Most often it is only because they are very excited. Allowing the dog to settle down before walking can often stop the leash pulling.

Sometimes, because of the dog pack mentality, a dog assumes leadership over its owner as if he were the leader of the pack. Therefore, the dog must be trained as to who the master is. The owner must establish him or herself as the leader of the pack. Failure to do so will result in ineffective training of any kind.

How to Leash Train

The first step is to train your English Bull Mastiff to sit still while you put the leash around his neck. Mastiffs love to spend time with their owners and they become very excited. Training your dog to be calm while preparing to go for a walk is an important step to leash training.

You can put toys or treats in your pocket to encourage your Mastiff to remain near your side as you walk. If he loses his concentration because a cat or another dog is nearby, you can change direction and coax him with a treat to get his attention back.

The idea is to get your puppy to be aware of you and your body so he will walk beside you and not wander or pull on the leash. If he begins to wander off or pull, stop walking. The collar will tighten and he will have to stop and turn and look at you. He will probably be confused at first as to why you are stopping. Coax him back to you and try walking together again.

At times you may need to give a gentle tug on the leash to get your puppy’s attention and to remind him that you are in charge. Never jerk harshly on the leash as this can cause damage to your dog’s trachea. You only want to get his attention, not frighten or harm your puppy.

Be consistent and persistent when leash training your English Bull Mastiff dog. Always, always praise him for his obedience. Mastiffs love nothing more than to please their owners, so praise goes a long way. Be patient, firm, and kind as you will get the desired results.

Leash training is so important, especially with large dogs. Failure to do so can lead to all sorts of problems, especially if they get off the leash around young children or other dogs. A well trained English Bull Mastiff is a joy to own and to be around.

Sam Daniels is a dog trainer and enthusiast and, for a limited time, is offering his extensive Mastiff Care Secrets course free of charge. It is jam-packed full of must-have information for Mastiff owners! To learn more about Mastiff care just go here http://www.YourMastiffAndYou.com

Sam Daniels is a dog trainer and enthusiast and, for a limited time, is offering his extensive [http://www.yourmastiffandyou.com]Mastiff Care Secrets course free of charge. It is jam-packed full of must-have information for Mastiff owners! Learn more about   Mastiff Care Now!

Technorati Tags: Dog Training, Dog Training Advice, Dog Training Tips, Leash Training, Mastiff, Mastiff Training, Dog-Training-Advice.com, John Hocking

You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

View the original article here

Dog Behavior Problems: Help! My dog is a nuisance when he misbehaves!

I have to admit that I feel disappointed, even sad whenever I hear dog owners say that statement. Why? Because, these owners have failed to see things from their dog?s prospective! To put it simply, I should say that they don?t understand their dogs at all.

Dogs do not misbehave because they're spiteful, or are out to annoy or anger you. They just behave in a manner which is expected of a dog!

The fact is that dog behavioral problems that we can?t stand are not problems at all to the dogs. In fact, do you know that dogs ?misbehave? for a reason or two? To list a few:
1. Dogs bark because they have something to say, something to tell you.

2. Dogs dig because they smell something underneath the ground.

3. Dogs chew because they are teething and are feeling uncomfortable.

4. Dogs chase after moving objects because they are following its instinct.

5. Dogs turn aggressive because they want to protect you.

For your information, most dogs actually misbehaved (in our eyes) because of the lack of care, concern and training from their very own owners:

1. Health Issue ? Many behaviorists & dog trainers believe that at least 20% of all behavior problems are related to the dog?s health in some way or another. For all that you might know. Your dog could be misbehaving because he is sick or in pain. Bring him to the vet for a thorough check-up if he misbehaves suddenly when he has always been a good dog.

2. Imbalance Diet ? Feeding your dog the wrong food, with too high in protein, fat or carbohydrates is known to cause hyperactivity. Sugars, starches and many other factors in your dog?s diet can also cause behavioral problems in your dog. Always read the label of the food before you feed him, seek advice if necessary. Remember that dogs need different type of food in different stages of their life.

3. Exercise - Lack of exercise also cause plentiful of problems. A dog that doesn?t get enough exercise is unhealthy and tends to be hyperactive, and display destructive behaviors. Dogs depending on breed type need plentiful of exercises - Do consider this factor before you get a puppy.

4. Lack of Leadership ?I can?t stress enough on the importance of the leadership issue. Dogs display TONS of behavioral problems when they lack a leader. Aggressive & destructive behaviors, leg lifting, marking, mounting, barking & etc? It?s very important that you assume the role of the alpha leader!

You must understand that all dog develop behavior problems. These dog behavior problems never develop in a vacuum. They are always the outcome of the interaction between a dog and its environment, including you! Most canine behavioral problems can be controlled if not solved completely. You just got to put in some effort and understand that prevention is better than cure.

Lastly, do try to see and comprehend things from your dog?s prospective the next time your dog misbehaves. You?ll soon find that you love him even more!

About the Author
Written by Moses Chia.
Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of http://DogsObedienceTraining.com ? The dog training resource site for a happier and healthier dog. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.

View the original article here

Comment on Crate Training A Puppy Or Adult Dog by Buying A Puppy

Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.

The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy’s den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.

When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.

Giving the pup special “treats” is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog’s purpose for the crate is that it becomes his ?den? you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.

A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den – a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.

Always feed the pup/dog?s regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.

To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you?re having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.

Normally a puppy follows a very definite ?potty pattern?: when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.

The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.

With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:

Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her ?potty area?. Right from the start I began repeating ?Quickly, quickly, quickly?, so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.

Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating ?Quickly, quickly, quickly?, and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.

Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten ? back outside. Family social hour ? back outside.

This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn?t have to clean up a single ?accident? with either animal.

At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.

If you work, don’t expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe ?chewy? items. Better safe than sorry.

Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.

Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their ?den?, their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog?s private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.

Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it?s a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.

Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy’s behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.

Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you?re at work and then crated again all night, he?s definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can?t control their functions for longer periods.

If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he?s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog?s confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you?ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he?s learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you?re certain that your dog doesn?t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don?t give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you?ve progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven?t done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!

Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.

Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.

About the author:
Anne Pottinger publishes http://www.4petsonline.coma pet and domestic animal website with a difference. The site contains hundreds of pages of pet information and advice as well as many humorous and often poignant articles. She?s always available to answer pet and domestic animal related questions

Technorati Tags: adult dog, dogs, training a dog, crate training, training, dog training, John Hocking, dog-training-advice.com

You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

View the original article here

The One Dog Trick That All Dogs Must Know - The Hand Shake Trick

If during the training you always take hold of the right paw, this paw will always be the one he will give you, but he can be taught to give you the left paw by taking it when you make the request. You can make the performance more interesting by saying ?shake hands? when you want the right paw and when you want the left paw say ?left paw.?

This gives your audience the impression that your dog understands that it is customary to shake hands with the right hand and that he also possesses a left paw, in fact that is what he actually learns.

Should your dog offer you the left paw when you ask to ?shake hands,? repeat your command distinctly, and when he sees, after a moment or two, that you are not going to take the paw he offers, he will put it down and in all probability offer you the other paw, which is the one you want.

You should take it promptly and hold it for a minute, then pat him on the head and impress on him that he has pleased you by praising and giving him a treat. This trick of shaking hands can also be varied by asking the dog to show you his pulse, or the trick can be farther elaborated by saying to your dog when you want to show him off to friends or acquaintances:

?Buddy, old man, you are not looking well this morning; come here and let me feel your pulse,?

and by putting a little emphasis on the word ?pulse? the dog will come up to you and offer you his paw, and if you take it with an air of gravity it will impress your audience with your dog?s talent.

Some dogs, after sufficient practice at this trick, get so habitual that they continually offer their paw to every one who will take it, and a case is recorded of a half-grown puppy of one of the larger breeds which was so accustomed to offering his paw that one day when a strange cat made its appearance on the premises before the puppy. He made a rush at the intruder with every appearance of hostility, but when near the cat habit gained a mastery over instinct, and held out his paw as usual to offer a friendly hand shake.

Enjoy teaching your dog the hand shake trick and most importantly have fun!

About the Author
Written by Moses Chia.
Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of www.DogsObedienceTraining.com ? The dog training resource site for a happier and healthier dog. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.

View the original article here

Comment on Bark Collars: Stop Unwanted Dog Barking by Dog Barking Collar

Bark Collars: Stop Unwanted Dog Barking
Author: Byron Pappageorge

Many pet owners become lost as to what to do when their dog is barking and nothing seems to stop him. Maybe it doesn’t even bother the pet owner himself, but the neighbors are complaining. What can be done? A bark collar is one method to help control a dog’s barking. Bark collars are used to stop a dog from barking, but should be used as a last resort.

While it may be inconvenient to the dog’s owner, bark is part of owning a dog. It comes with the territory, so to speak. Understanding why your dog barks may help you realize what needs to be done. Often, the only thing that can be done is to use a bark collar. Here’s how they work.

Suppose that while a dog owner is away from home, neighbors complain that the barking is unbearable. Perhaps a dog barks quite a bit at night and this leads neighbors to report the owner. Using a bark collar can help eliminate this. The collar is placed on the dog either all the time or during certain times that the pet owner wishes to stop the dog’s barking. When the dog barks, a very small amount of electric stimulation which is similar to static shock is sent through the bark collar to the dog. While it is uncomfortable, it is not harmful. The dog barks again, and again, the collar sends the stimulation. The dog starts to relate the stimulation to the bark and will eventually stop barking.

A bark collar is a bark collar. It will do its job and eliminate or lessen the amount of barking a dog does. Deciding when to use a bark collar is the decision only the pet owner can make. A recommendation to use a bark collar is not bad, but it may be necessary. Should the dog keep barking and causing the pet owner’s neighbors to report it, can lead the animal to being removed. If a bark collar can stop this, it may be necessary. But, before resorting to this level, a pet owner should try to find out why his dog is barking. Using a bark collar sparingly or only during specific times may also lessen the effects on the dog. While a great tool, the decision to use a bark collar should be thought about first.

http://www.dogtrainingcollars.net

Byron Pappageorge

You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

View the original article here

A Step-By-Step Guide To Puppy Picking

If you have children, you may want to rule out very small dogs, such as Chihuahuas or Maltese. They are delicate and can be accidentally injured by young children. On the other hand, very large dogs, such as Boxers or Saint Bernards, can be overly boisterous and can accidentally turn your child into a human bowling pin. Consider medium-sized breeds, such as Fox Terriers or Lhasa Apsos.

Exercise Essential

Next, consider how much exercise you can give your dog. If you have a home with a fenced yard, your dog will be able to get some exercise on his own.

However, dog breeds in the Sporting, Hound, and Herding groups are very high-energy animals, and they will need intensive daily exercise. Plan to take a lot of long walks with your dog or go for a daily romp in the park. After all, these dogs were bred to work hard, and they don't do well unless they have a job to do or a way to burn off excess energy.

To Groom Or Not

Also, don't forget to consider grooming needs. Some breeds need only half an hour or so of grooming a week, while others require an hour a day. If you are short on time, don't buy a Standard Poodle or a Maltese -- unless you plan to take your dog to a groom. Breeds like Boston Terriers or Whippets are good choices for people who don't have time for a lot of grooming.

Puppy Problems

Once you decide which breed you want, you will need to consider the age of the dog. Many people opt to buy a cuddly little puppy instead of an adult. While puppies have the advantage of not yet having developed any bad habits, it will be up to you to be sure your puppy is housebroken and obedience trained.

Do you want to buy a puppy? If so, you will need to find a reputable dog breeder who has a litter of the appropriate breed. Often, a good breeder will have a waiting list for puppies. If you aren't the patient sort, you may be tempted to buy a puppy from a pet store. A word of caution -- many pet store puppies come from puppy mills and have genetic health defects, bad temperaments, and other problems. It is usually safest to buy a puppy directly from the breeder. Older dogs are usually housebroken and frequently have some obedience training. They are also less likely to be hyperactive and destructive. However, they can have behavioral problems or health problems that prompted the former owner to find them a new home. If you are interested in an older dog, you may want to visit your local animal shelter or call a breed rescue. These groups evaluate the dogs' health and temperament before adopting them out. Once you've picked the breed and the dog, you have one more important decision to make -- what to name your new best friend!

About the author:
Written by Ron King.
Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. Visit http://www.new-pup.com to learn more about this subject.

View the original article here

Puppy Naming Tips

Dogs understand short commands. Easy names with two or fewer syllables work well.

Your puppy?s name shouldn?t sound like any commands. ?Stacy? and ?stay? are too close for comfort. Such a name will only confuse the issue.

Remember, you?ll be using your pup?s name in public. ?Boner? may be cute among your fellow fraternity members, but it won?t go over well at the veterinarian.

Make your kids part of the decision process. Kids like it simple, too, so if calling your Champion Cavalier King Spaniel ?Bootsie? works for them, consider keeping the hoity toity name strictly for AKC purposes.

You may think it?s an honor to name your pup after you?re favorite Uncle Norbert. Naming your baby after him may keep you in the will, but naming your puppy after him won?t.

If you?re bringing home an older dog, ideally, stick with the name it already owns. Can?t stand it because ?Barney? was the first boy who broke your heart? Then stick with similar sounds when choosing a new dog name. ?Barney? morphs into ?Farley? easily.

Once you?ve chosen a name, try it out for a day or so. You?ll know right away whether it?s a keeper. If not, there?s always more puppy names on your list! Take a look around you. The world overflows with terrific ideas on what to name your pooch. At first glance, a couple things will stand out about your new puppy. Enjoy him or her for a day or two and take these into consideration.

Appearance. What?s your dog look like? His color, size, and personal style inspires a variety of name choices. ?Stubbs? would be a great name for a dachshund pup. Or you may call a cream colored *censored*-a-poo ?Buffy.?

Personality. Given a couple of days, your new dog?s personality will really shine through. Try ?Cuddles? for the sweet little guy who loves to get cozy or ?Puddles? for the pooch who can?t seem to find the doggie door. If you want to go beyond the basics, many famous dog names or foreign dog names can fit the bill. Consider these favorite puppy names when making your decision.

Celebrity puppy names. Today, pooches have more celebrity following than their famous owners. Chew on ?Lola,? a name used by both Hilary Duff and the Osbournes.

TV dogs. ?Scooby? and ?Astro? come to mind if you want to honor a famous TV pup.

Movie dogs. Cool movies and cool dog names seem to go hand in hand. Cool Hand Luke?s ?Blue? would be a fitting label for a variety of dogs. Or try ?Bodie,? from the weeper Steel Magnolias.

Comic dogs. ?Snoopy? will always be a favorite, but also consider ?Daisy? or ?Odie.?

German dog names. For starters, try out ?Fritz? or ?Kaiser.? ?Irish dog names. ?Finn? fits well for any pup, as does ?Murphy,? which just happens to mean ?hound of the sea.?

French puppy names. ?Pierre? and ?Gigi? are top contenders for any dog, especially those with a little oo-la-la in their genes. The choices are endless. However, with these simple tips and some thought, before long, you?ll have found the perfect puppy name!

You?ve picked out the perfect puppy. You spent hours on the internet, researching the right breed for you and your family. Then you went from breeder to breeder or humane society to humane society, meeting and greeting pups until you find just the right match. Now what? He needs a name! Over the course of its life, you will use your dog?s name more than 35,000 times. So be sure you?re picking a name you can live with and love. With these seven simple steps, the key to finding the perfect puppy name is at your fingertips!

Dogs understand short commands. Easy names with two or fewer syllables work well.

Your puppy?s name shouldn?t sound like any commands. ?Stacy? and ?stay? are too close for comfort. Such a name will only confuse the issue.

Remember, you?ll be using your pup?s name in public. ?Boner? may be cute among your fellow fraternity members, but it won?t go over well at the veterinarian.

Make your kids part of the decision process. Kids like it simple, too, so if calling your Champion Cavalier King Spaniel ?Bootsie? works for them, consider keeping the hoity toity name strictly for AKC purposes.

You may think it?s an honor to name your pup after you?re favorite Uncle Norbert. Naming your baby after him may keep you in the will, but naming your puppy after him won?t.

If you?re bringing home an older dog, ideally, stick with the name it already owns. Can?t stand it because ?Barney? was the first boy who broke your heart? Then stick with similar sounds when choosing a new dog name. ?Barney? morphs into ?Farley? easily.

Once you?ve chosen a name, try it out for a day or so. You?ll know right away whether it?s a keeper. If not, there?s always more puppy names on your list! Take a look around you. The world overflows with terrific ideas on what to name your pooch. At first glance, a couple things will stand out about your new puppy. Enjoy him or her for a day or two and take these into consideration.

Appearance. What?s your dog look like? His color, size, and personal style inspires a variety of name choices. ?Stubbs? would be a great name for a dachshund pup. Or you may call a cream colored *censored*-a-poo ?Buffy.?

Personality. Given a couple of days, your new dog?s personality will really shine through. Try ?Cuddles? for the sweet little guy who loves to get cozy or ?Puddles? for the pooch who can?t seem to find the doggie door. If you want to go beyond the basics, many famous dog names or foreign dog names can fit the bill. Consider these favorite puppy names when making your decision.

Celebrity puppy names. Today, pooches have more celebrity following than their famous owners. Chew on ?Lola,? a name used by both Hilary Duff and the Osbournes.

TV dogs. ?Scooby? and ?Astro? come to mind if you want to honor a famous TV pup.

Movie dogs. Cool movies and cool dog names seem to go hand in hand. Cool Hand Luke?s ?Blue? would be a fitting label for a variety of dogs. Or try ?Bodie,? from the weeper Steel Magnolias.

Comic dogs. ?Snoopy? will always be a favorite, but also consider ?Daisy? or ?Odie.?

German dog names. For starters, try out ?Fritz? or ?Kaiser.?

Irish dog names. ?Finn? fits well for any pup, as does ?Murphy,? which just happens to mean ?hound of the sea.?

French puppy names. ?Pierre? and ?Gigi? are top contenders for any dog, especially those with a little oo-la-la in their genes. The choices are endless. However, with these simple tips and some thought, before long, you?ll have found the perfect puppy name!

About the author:
Written by Jennifer McVey.
Want to find a puppy name? The author, Jennifer McVey, uses her free time searching for common and not-so-common names for your canine friends. As webmistress of www.favorite-puppy-names.com, she delivers a comprehensive dogs name list along with great naming tips to help make the puppy naming process easy and fun!

View the original article here

Choosing The Right Puppy Breed

Purebred puppy breeds have inherent characteristics that are particular to their breed, and these characteristics usually get more pronounced with age. While different breed characteristics will be appropriate for different families, matching the wrong breed with the wrong family can have devastating consequences.

It has been estimated that the number one reason why competent pet owners relinquish ownership of their puppy or puppies to one of the many county humane services to be found all across the country is because they have become frustrated with certain characteristics of the dog. No matter whether the problem is big, such as aggression to children or other pets, or small, such as a tendency to chew everything in sight, as the puppy grows and its cuteness wears off, the frustration experienced from having a poorly matched puppy will increase. And the consequences can be heart wrenching for the both the family and the dog.

But by simply taking a little time to research the breed you are considering purchasing, you can guarantee that your new puppy will be a well-loved addition to your family unit. While I'm not saying that you should discount a breed entirely based on one troublesome characteristic, I'm saying that you should be prepared and able to deal with any problems, behavioral or health related, that is associated with the breed.

In order to obtain accurate information when choosing the right breed of puppy for your family, stay away from sources that have an interest in selling the puppy. I learned this one the hard way. After my children and family fell in love with a puppy at a local, reputable pet store, I had many questions for the sales clerk about how easily the puppy could be house broken. A puppy making messes all over the house is just not something that I can deal with a few times let alone for months of house breaking.

I was assured by the clerk that the breed was very intelligent and able to be crate trained in a matter of three days. To make a long story short, $1,500 and 9 months later the puppy still requires constant supervision and cannot be a complete part of the family due to our inability to house break him. Research conducted after the purchase revealed that the breed was inherently stubborn and in some cases unable to be house broken despite all attempts.

So, instead of relying on biased sources, turn to the library and people who own that particular breed of puppy or have owned one in the past. If you know someone who has relinquished a purebred puppy of the breed that you are considering for a fraction of the cost that they paid for it or for free, you need to ask them some serious and pointed questions before deciding to invest in that particular breed of puppy. Here are the most important questions that you need answered before purchasing a puppy or puppies:

1. What is the temperament like? 2. What is the mature size and weight? 3. Are they good with children? 4. What are their indigenous health problems? 5. How long do they live? 6. How much do they shed? 7. How much do they eat? 8. How trainable are they? 9. Can they be easily house broken? 10. Do they require a lot of grooming? 11. How noisy are they? 12. How protective are they? 13. Do they require any special care or management? 14. Are they good with other dogs and animals?

Now all you need to do is match the answers of these questions with your family's needs. Choose wisely, and you will have chosen a best friend of a lifetime, a dog that will truly be a joy to have and a treasured member of the family.

About the author:
Written by Randy Myers.
Find more puppy articles, tips and tricks at my website: Wise Puppy http://www.WisePuppy.com .

View the original article here

Training Your Dog to Sit

1. This first one is easy. You just start by saying "sit" every time the puppy sits itself. He learns to associate the word sit with the action. This is a tip you can use in all training.

2. Take out his favorite treat and keep it in your hand. Sausage usually works well but remember to cut it in small pieces so the puppy can swallow it fast.

3. Sit down on the floor so you get to the same level as the dog. You are less threatening when you sit. More important is that you are close to the dog so you can reward him faster. More about this soon.

4. Slowly move the treat over your puppy's head. The intention is to get the puppy to smell the treat (he will) and follow it with his nose. He has two options. Either back still standing or sit down. It's easier to sit down.

5 Immediately as he sits you say "sit" and give him the piece of sausage. This is the key factor to all training. The reward has to be exact in the same moment as the dog does the right thing.

6. Praise the dog. Show your joy with your voice as well as with your body language.

7. Repeat these steps 3-5 times. Not more than that though, as it has to be fun! On the other hand you can repeat the steps several times during the day.

8. In the next step you should try these steps while standing up. You can try to see if the dog reacts only to the word "sit" without your hand and the treat. If he sits down you obviously should praise him and if he doesn't don't care. You should never show your disappointment to your dog when you are training.

This is pretty easy for the puppy. In a day or two you will get him to sit with your "sit" command. Now you can try to make him sit down beside you. This is actually a preparation for the heel training. There you want him to sit as soon as you stop walking. If you have thoughts about obedience competitions with your dog you should consider the exact position where he sits and also how fast he sits. That is however off topic in this article.

The next level is to strengthen the word so you get the dog to sit in every situation no matter what's going on around him. This is an ongoing process and you should never stop training. Use every new situation to train him. Make him sit with new people, new dogs and new surroundings.

It's quite easy to train your dog to sit. If you consider not training your dog my advice is, think again. When you start training with your new puppy you get much more than the sitting part The puppy loves to do things with you. He learns to listen to his name. He gets used to training and doing things with you and on your initiative. This all together strengthen your position as the leader, and the puppy feels secure. When the puppy falls asleep in the evening his last thoughts should be: "This is really a great pack!"

About the Author
Written by Timothy Robinson
Tim Robinson is the owner of www.PetGiftsandToys.com Visit this site for the enjoyment, and the health and happiness of your pet.

View the original article here

Comment on Crate Training A Puppy Or Adult Dog by Dog Obedience Schools

Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.

The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy’s den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.

When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.

Giving the pup special “treats” is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog’s purpose for the crate is that it becomes his ?den? you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.

A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den – a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.

Always feed the pup/dog?s regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.

To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you?re having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.

Normally a puppy follows a very definite ?potty pattern?: when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.

The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.

With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:

Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her ?potty area?. Right from the start I began repeating ?Quickly, quickly, quickly?, so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.

Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating ?Quickly, quickly, quickly?, and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.

Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten ? back outside. Family social hour ? back outside.

This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn?t have to clean up a single ?accident? with either animal.

At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.

If you work, don’t expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe ?chewy? items. Better safe than sorry.

Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.

Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their ?den?, their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog?s private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.

Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it?s a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.

Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy’s behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.

Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you?re at work and then crated again all night, he?s definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can?t control their functions for longer periods.

If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he?s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog?s confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you?ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he?s learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you?re certain that your dog doesn?t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don?t give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you?ve progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven?t done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!

Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.

Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.

About the author:
Anne Pottinger publishes http://www.4petsonline.coma pet and domestic animal website with a difference. The site contains hundreds of pages of pet information and advice as well as many humorous and often poignant articles. She?s always available to answer pet and domestic animal related questions

Technorati Tags: adult dog, dogs, training a dog, crate training, training, dog training, John Hocking, dog-training-advice.com

You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

View the original article here

Dog Supplies: What�s Needed Versus What Might Be Fun to Have

When you first walk into a pet store you will be bombarded by everything from designer clothes to dog food, and the salesmen are rarely any help. They?re goal is to sell you everything you lay your eyes on. But in reality there are really only a few basic things you need to make your new family member comfortable and you a happy dog owner.

First and foremost, buy a book about your breed. All breeds are very different and have different needs and personality quirks. But at the same time, don?t think of the book as the end all and be all of how your dog is supposed to behave. Like people, dogs each have their own personalities. The book is there simply to give you guidance.

Second, get a good collar. Make sure you can stick at least two fingers between the dog?s skin and the collar. Also make sure you get a collar that allows plenty of room for growth. Some breeds grow very fast and you don?t want to be replacing the collar every two weeks during your puppy?s first year. Also, get a good training collar. These come in many, many sizes and types. The two most popular types are called the choke chain and the German pinch collar. But don?t let the names scare you. These two training collars are the best for teaching your dog to heal and to walk on the end of a leash without jerking your arm out of the socket.

Both collars have their pros and cons. The choke chain is easy to use and doesn?t ?look? cruel. But you have to replace it as the dog gets bigger and depending on the breed, this can get very expensive. The German choke chain ?looks? evil but as the dog grows bigger you can simply add additional links. But the biggest thing to remember with both collars is to ?never? use the collar as your dog?s everyday collar. Dog owner?s can grow very lazy when using these collars and forget to check them. It?s not uncommon for an owner to forget to check the collar and end up having to cut the collar off because the dog grew so big the collar would no longer fit over its head. Choke chains and German pinch collars are to be used for training purposes only.

The other supplies needed for happy dogs are simple:

 A weighted food and water bowl. Dogs, especially puppies, seem to have a fondness for playing in their dinner as much as eating it.  A well made crate or dog house, depending on whether or not the dog will be an inside or outside dog; at least three leashes of varying lengths, used for training and walking purposes. The book you get will explain how the different sized leashes are used in training.  Chew toys, chew toys, chew toys. Dogs, especially puppies, need to exercise their gums regularly and unless you plan on replacing your furniture, your expensive crown molding and your slippers on a regular basis, get your new friend a wide selection of chew toys.  And finally, DOG FOOD! Despite what some animal rights groups would have you believe, dogs are carnivores. They eat meat. So check the ingredients. If corn and other types of vegetables is the first ingredient listed, your new four-legged friend is not getting what he needs. Look for chicken or beef to be listed as the first ingredient.

A few more supplies you will need as the dog gets older, but aren?t necessarily mandatory when you first get your puppy include; a good brush, ID tag and dog treats. Treats are better utilized as just that ? treats. Instead of using treats as a training aid, substitute your dog?s favorite toy. Trust me, after about a month you will discover what his favorite toy is.

And now for the supplies that might be fun to have. Squeaky toys are very cute in the store and your dog will love them. But they will get very old very quickly. Imagine this scenario. You?ve just walked in the front door from a long day at work. You sit down to watch TV and decompress and from the other side of the room you hear, ?Squeak, squeak, squeak, squeak.? That will get old very quickly.

And even though they?re cute, please save your dog?s dignity and avoid buying any clothes, designer or otherwise, for Fido. Have you ever really looked at a dog?s face when he?s wearing clothes? He?s embarrassed. A good rule of thumb to use is this ? if you wouldn?t be seen in public wearing it, don?t make your dog wear it. Have fun with your new family member.

About the author:
Written by Allen Shaw.
Allen Shaw is a successful author who provides pet tips and information for http://www.dogs-n-u.com.

View the original article here