You Should Teach Your Puppy Proper Chewing Behavior

Many believe the longer a pup is allowed to stay with her mother and siblings, the better she will behave. It seems that puppies younger than eight weeks--who are taken from their mother--exhibit a more aggressive form of chewing and biting over those pups which are separated after the two-month mark.

Pups learn from the day they are born what is expected of them. Most pups find their mother is very tolerant of being chewed and gnawed on. However, as the pup grows and those sharp little teeth start coming in, the mother dog starts setting the limit on how much nipping she will tolerate, especially if she has a large litter using her for a chew toy! The mother dog will usually get up and leave the area which will eventually teach the little squirts to be gentle with her.

This is usually when the pups start rough housing and playing with their litter mates. Nothing is more enjoyable than watching a pile of pups roll, tumble, and clumsily play with each other. Nevertheless, it is important to understand what is taking place during this time. What looks like good old puppy fun to us is truly a necessary part to a dog?s development. During this time with siblings, puppies are learning their place in the ?pack.? They are figuring out who is the boss, and they are testing their limits with each other.

When a puppy nips or chews on their sibling too hard, they are shocked when their sibling lets out a yelp. One of two things usually occurs at this point. The hurt sibling will either fight back and nip their sibling in return even harder, or the hurt pup will refuse to play with the biter any longer. Both of these approaches work to teach pups how to interact. When pups are taken from their mother and litter mates too soon, they miss out on this much needed character and personality training.

If your puppy is chewing everything in site, it can be very frustrating. Who wants to come home to find an expensive pair of shoes torn apart or feathers from pillows floating in the air? I know of one particular couple who came home to find their entire couch shredded down to the springs. Their two pups were snoozing in the midst of all the mess oblivious to their naughty deed. Also, it is hard for children and adults to be around a puppy who thinks that fingers, toes and pant legs are an invitation for teething and biting. Situations like this are why many pups find themselves banned to the outdoors, or locked in a crate for hours on end, while their owners are at work.

It is important to understand that teething is as natural to a puppy as teething is to a human infant. It is just a fact of life. You cannot expect your puppy to not want to chew. It helps her teeth come through the gums, and it also promotes the development of her adult teeth under the gums. Puppies see no differentiation between a bone and a hairbrush. Both serve the purpose to a puppy. In fact, most puppies will sometimes seek out items that have their owners scent if they are having separation anxiety. So, it is important that you teach your pup from day one proper chewing behaviors. If not, your puppy will assume everything in the home is at her disposal whenever it suits her.

The best advice is to go out and purchase your puppy some chew toys. These toys should be mentally stimulating to your pup. If not, your pup will soon tire of them and return to the piano leg! Some chew toys can even be purchased which have treats inside. These treats take some work to get to. Your pup can spend hours figuring out how to chew on these toys in the right manner to reach the yummy inside. Once your puppy has learned there are items in her home which provide her with a snack, she will tire of your shoes, furniture and clothing. It is good to stock up on the chew toys which seem to stimulate your pup and occupy her time the most. You should only leave one or two of these out at a time. You should also rotate the toys to ensure she doesn?t get bored.

The important thing to remember about chew toys is that you should not purchase ones that have a hidden bell or other device which can pose as a choking hazard. You should also avoid toys that have been chemically treated.

When your pup gets overly rambunctious and starts nipping and chewing on you, you should handle the situation like her mother and litter mates would. This is especially important if you have a pup which was taken from its mother and siblings rather early. When your pup starts nibbling on your person, or clothing, you should let out a noise that lets her know it hurt. This is not a problem if she has actually nipped at your skin! But, you should also put on your acting hat and let out a yelp if she is pulling on your shoe laces or pant leg. When you do this, it will usually startle her. You should immediately walk away from your dog, or leave her in the area alone.

It will take consistency and repetition for your puppy to get the message that what she is doing is wrong. However, if she is a slow learner, you can let out your ?yelp? and put her in her crate. You shouldn?t be harsh about the manner, as this will only confuse her. Once she is in her crate, she may turn on the tears and start trying to manipulate you with her whiney groans of dissatisfaction. When this occurs, you should never take her out. Wait until she has stopped her tantrum and then release her. When you let her out, be affectionate with her and let her know all is well. You should not hold a grudge, as your dog is incapable of understanding why you are angry. Also, when you place her in her crate, it should only be for a few minutes . . . unless she is having a full-blown tantrum. Then you should wait until she quiets. If you are consistent with this approach, your pup will soon learn that when she nips, chews or bites she will have to go to time out.

Puppies love to be handled and may affectionately want to play with you like she would her litter mates. It is perfectly fine for a pup to want to lick or even playfully hold your fingers in her mouth as you play. This is normal, and a form of bonding. However, any form of aggression or pressure should be promptly discouraged. Puppies usually learn by four months what is appropriate in regards to chewing . . . if their owners are consistent with training.

About the author:
Author Ian White is founder of Dog-Breeders.biz. Those seeking dogs can locate and match with appropriate breeders. Dog-Breeders.biz automates the matching of dogs for sale with dog wanted entries, with daily email notifications. Dog lovers and breeders can find more information on the website at: http://www.dog-breeders.biz

View the original article here

Introduce Your Puppy To New Situations... And Ensure Good Behaviour For The Rest Of Her Life

An unsocial dog will attack other dogs, children, vets, and even you.

The things that startle dogs often surprise their owners. Hats, balloons, garden statues, and other mundane things that seem to pose no threat. To your dog, however, it is an unknown. If you are a subdued person, your dog might show fear around a bubbly extrovert. Basically, any situation or object your dog is not accustomed to can create fear and stress in her.

Cornell University College of Vet Medicine suggests that the socialization period lasts up to about 12 weeks (3 months) of age.

So it is best if the socialization process begins when the dog is a puppy. This is a key learning time for dogs, so they become socialized more quickly. However, even older dogs that were not socialized as puppies can reach that confident, relaxed state. Socializing a dog that is more than one year old may take a little longer, but the results are rewarding.

Socializing a dog is a very simple process: take the dog to as many different places as you can. Your dog will pick up on your body language and follow your lead, so it is important for you to act confident and relaxed, especially when your dog hesitates. While you are walking about, stop every so often to pet your dog and talk to her in a happy voice. Naturally, feeding her a treat or two will give her a positive association with the environment.

Here are some quick ideas to try to give your puppy confidence.

Invite friends to meet her. This will help her get used to unfamiliar people.

Take her to the shopping mall, into the park, school play areas to experience new environments.

Introduce the puppy to anything you expect her to use daily - the yard, her leash, stairs.

Since your goal is to give your dog confidence, not traumatize her, never force your dog to accept a person or situation. Respect her feelings, and try again later.

While you are out and about, remember that you are your dog's guardian. Keep an eye out for excited children running towards your dog. A good way to handle this kind of situation is to stop the kids verbally about 10 feet from your dog. Explain to them that your dog is just getting used to new places and new people. Ask them to approach quietly and one at a time so that your dog learns that children are nothing to be afraid of. Letting the children feed your dog a treat is sure to help her learn to accept these high-energy, enthusiastic strangers.

Properly socializing your puppy will ensure the best traits come out in your new pet and you and your pet enjoy your life together.

About the author:

Written by NS Kennedy.

Best Pet Health Information is a resource which will help you find infomation, hints and tips to keeping your dog happy and healthy. http://www.best-pet-health.info

Copyright ? 2005 Best-Pet-Health.info. All rights reserved.

View the original article here

Comment on Crate Training A Puppy Or Adult Dog by Buying A Puppy

Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.

The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy’s den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.

When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.

Giving the pup special “treats” is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog’s purpose for the crate is that it becomes his ?den? you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.

A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den – a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.

Always feed the pup/dog?s regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.

To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you?re having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.

Normally a puppy follows a very definite ?potty pattern?: when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.

The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.

With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:

Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her ?potty area?. Right from the start I began repeating ?Quickly, quickly, quickly?, so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.

Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating ?Quickly, quickly, quickly?, and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.

Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten ? back outside. Family social hour ? back outside.

This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn?t have to clean up a single ?accident? with either animal.

At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.

If you work, don’t expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe ?chewy? items. Better safe than sorry.

Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.

Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their ?den?, their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog?s private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.

Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it?s a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.

Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy’s behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.

Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you?re at work and then crated again all night, he?s definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can?t control their functions for longer periods.

If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he?s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog?s confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you?ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he?s learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you?re certain that your dog doesn?t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don?t give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you?ve progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven?t done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!

Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.

Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.

About the author:
Anne Pottinger publishes http://www.4petsonline.coma pet and domestic animal website with a difference. The site contains hundreds of pages of pet information and advice as well as many humorous and often poignant articles. She?s always available to answer pet and domestic animal related questions

Technorati Tags: adult dog, dogs, training a dog, crate training, training, dog training, John Hocking, dog-training-advice.com

You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

View the original article here

A Step-By-Step Guide To Puppy Picking

If you have children, you may want to rule out very small dogs, such as Chihuahuas or Maltese. They are delicate and can be accidentally injured by young children. On the other hand, very large dogs, such as Boxers or Saint Bernards, can be overly boisterous and can accidentally turn your child into a human bowling pin. Consider medium-sized breeds, such as Fox Terriers or Lhasa Apsos.

Exercise Essential

Next, consider how much exercise you can give your dog. If you have a home with a fenced yard, your dog will be able to get some exercise on his own.

However, dog breeds in the Sporting, Hound, and Herding groups are very high-energy animals, and they will need intensive daily exercise. Plan to take a lot of long walks with your dog or go for a daily romp in the park. After all, these dogs were bred to work hard, and they don't do well unless they have a job to do or a way to burn off excess energy.

To Groom Or Not

Also, don't forget to consider grooming needs. Some breeds need only half an hour or so of grooming a week, while others require an hour a day. If you are short on time, don't buy a Standard Poodle or a Maltese -- unless you plan to take your dog to a groom. Breeds like Boston Terriers or Whippets are good choices for people who don't have time for a lot of grooming.

Puppy Problems

Once you decide which breed you want, you will need to consider the age of the dog. Many people opt to buy a cuddly little puppy instead of an adult. While puppies have the advantage of not yet having developed any bad habits, it will be up to you to be sure your puppy is housebroken and obedience trained.

Do you want to buy a puppy? If so, you will need to find a reputable dog breeder who has a litter of the appropriate breed. Often, a good breeder will have a waiting list for puppies. If you aren't the patient sort, you may be tempted to buy a puppy from a pet store. A word of caution -- many pet store puppies come from puppy mills and have genetic health defects, bad temperaments, and other problems. It is usually safest to buy a puppy directly from the breeder. Older dogs are usually housebroken and frequently have some obedience training. They are also less likely to be hyperactive and destructive. However, they can have behavioral problems or health problems that prompted the former owner to find them a new home. If you are interested in an older dog, you may want to visit your local animal shelter or call a breed rescue. These groups evaluate the dogs' health and temperament before adopting them out. Once you've picked the breed and the dog, you have one more important decision to make -- what to name your new best friend!

About the author:
Written by Ron King.
Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. Visit http://www.new-pup.com to learn more about this subject.

View the original article here

Puppy Naming Tips

Dogs understand short commands. Easy names with two or fewer syllables work well.

Your puppy?s name shouldn?t sound like any commands. ?Stacy? and ?stay? are too close for comfort. Such a name will only confuse the issue.

Remember, you?ll be using your pup?s name in public. ?Boner? may be cute among your fellow fraternity members, but it won?t go over well at the veterinarian.

Make your kids part of the decision process. Kids like it simple, too, so if calling your Champion Cavalier King Spaniel ?Bootsie? works for them, consider keeping the hoity toity name strictly for AKC purposes.

You may think it?s an honor to name your pup after you?re favorite Uncle Norbert. Naming your baby after him may keep you in the will, but naming your puppy after him won?t.

If you?re bringing home an older dog, ideally, stick with the name it already owns. Can?t stand it because ?Barney? was the first boy who broke your heart? Then stick with similar sounds when choosing a new dog name. ?Barney? morphs into ?Farley? easily.

Once you?ve chosen a name, try it out for a day or so. You?ll know right away whether it?s a keeper. If not, there?s always more puppy names on your list! Take a look around you. The world overflows with terrific ideas on what to name your pooch. At first glance, a couple things will stand out about your new puppy. Enjoy him or her for a day or two and take these into consideration.

Appearance. What?s your dog look like? His color, size, and personal style inspires a variety of name choices. ?Stubbs? would be a great name for a dachshund pup. Or you may call a cream colored *censored*-a-poo ?Buffy.?

Personality. Given a couple of days, your new dog?s personality will really shine through. Try ?Cuddles? for the sweet little guy who loves to get cozy or ?Puddles? for the pooch who can?t seem to find the doggie door. If you want to go beyond the basics, many famous dog names or foreign dog names can fit the bill. Consider these favorite puppy names when making your decision.

Celebrity puppy names. Today, pooches have more celebrity following than their famous owners. Chew on ?Lola,? a name used by both Hilary Duff and the Osbournes.

TV dogs. ?Scooby? and ?Astro? come to mind if you want to honor a famous TV pup.

Movie dogs. Cool movies and cool dog names seem to go hand in hand. Cool Hand Luke?s ?Blue? would be a fitting label for a variety of dogs. Or try ?Bodie,? from the weeper Steel Magnolias.

Comic dogs. ?Snoopy? will always be a favorite, but also consider ?Daisy? or ?Odie.?

German dog names. For starters, try out ?Fritz? or ?Kaiser.? ?Irish dog names. ?Finn? fits well for any pup, as does ?Murphy,? which just happens to mean ?hound of the sea.?

French puppy names. ?Pierre? and ?Gigi? are top contenders for any dog, especially those with a little oo-la-la in their genes. The choices are endless. However, with these simple tips and some thought, before long, you?ll have found the perfect puppy name!

You?ve picked out the perfect puppy. You spent hours on the internet, researching the right breed for you and your family. Then you went from breeder to breeder or humane society to humane society, meeting and greeting pups until you find just the right match. Now what? He needs a name! Over the course of its life, you will use your dog?s name more than 35,000 times. So be sure you?re picking a name you can live with and love. With these seven simple steps, the key to finding the perfect puppy name is at your fingertips!

Dogs understand short commands. Easy names with two or fewer syllables work well.

Your puppy?s name shouldn?t sound like any commands. ?Stacy? and ?stay? are too close for comfort. Such a name will only confuse the issue.

Remember, you?ll be using your pup?s name in public. ?Boner? may be cute among your fellow fraternity members, but it won?t go over well at the veterinarian.

Make your kids part of the decision process. Kids like it simple, too, so if calling your Champion Cavalier King Spaniel ?Bootsie? works for them, consider keeping the hoity toity name strictly for AKC purposes.

You may think it?s an honor to name your pup after you?re favorite Uncle Norbert. Naming your baby after him may keep you in the will, but naming your puppy after him won?t.

If you?re bringing home an older dog, ideally, stick with the name it already owns. Can?t stand it because ?Barney? was the first boy who broke your heart? Then stick with similar sounds when choosing a new dog name. ?Barney? morphs into ?Farley? easily.

Once you?ve chosen a name, try it out for a day or so. You?ll know right away whether it?s a keeper. If not, there?s always more puppy names on your list! Take a look around you. The world overflows with terrific ideas on what to name your pooch. At first glance, a couple things will stand out about your new puppy. Enjoy him or her for a day or two and take these into consideration.

Appearance. What?s your dog look like? His color, size, and personal style inspires a variety of name choices. ?Stubbs? would be a great name for a dachshund pup. Or you may call a cream colored *censored*-a-poo ?Buffy.?

Personality. Given a couple of days, your new dog?s personality will really shine through. Try ?Cuddles? for the sweet little guy who loves to get cozy or ?Puddles? for the pooch who can?t seem to find the doggie door. If you want to go beyond the basics, many famous dog names or foreign dog names can fit the bill. Consider these favorite puppy names when making your decision.

Celebrity puppy names. Today, pooches have more celebrity following than their famous owners. Chew on ?Lola,? a name used by both Hilary Duff and the Osbournes.

TV dogs. ?Scooby? and ?Astro? come to mind if you want to honor a famous TV pup.

Movie dogs. Cool movies and cool dog names seem to go hand in hand. Cool Hand Luke?s ?Blue? would be a fitting label for a variety of dogs. Or try ?Bodie,? from the weeper Steel Magnolias.

Comic dogs. ?Snoopy? will always be a favorite, but also consider ?Daisy? or ?Odie.?

German dog names. For starters, try out ?Fritz? or ?Kaiser.?

Irish dog names. ?Finn? fits well for any pup, as does ?Murphy,? which just happens to mean ?hound of the sea.?

French puppy names. ?Pierre? and ?Gigi? are top contenders for any dog, especially those with a little oo-la-la in their genes. The choices are endless. However, with these simple tips and some thought, before long, you?ll have found the perfect puppy name!

About the author:
Written by Jennifer McVey.
Want to find a puppy name? The author, Jennifer McVey, uses her free time searching for common and not-so-common names for your canine friends. As webmistress of www.favorite-puppy-names.com, she delivers a comprehensive dogs name list along with great naming tips to help make the puppy naming process easy and fun!

View the original article here

Choosing The Right Puppy Breed

Purebred puppy breeds have inherent characteristics that are particular to their breed, and these characteristics usually get more pronounced with age. While different breed characteristics will be appropriate for different families, matching the wrong breed with the wrong family can have devastating consequences.

It has been estimated that the number one reason why competent pet owners relinquish ownership of their puppy or puppies to one of the many county humane services to be found all across the country is because they have become frustrated with certain characteristics of the dog. No matter whether the problem is big, such as aggression to children or other pets, or small, such as a tendency to chew everything in sight, as the puppy grows and its cuteness wears off, the frustration experienced from having a poorly matched puppy will increase. And the consequences can be heart wrenching for the both the family and the dog.

But by simply taking a little time to research the breed you are considering purchasing, you can guarantee that your new puppy will be a well-loved addition to your family unit. While I'm not saying that you should discount a breed entirely based on one troublesome characteristic, I'm saying that you should be prepared and able to deal with any problems, behavioral or health related, that is associated with the breed.

In order to obtain accurate information when choosing the right breed of puppy for your family, stay away from sources that have an interest in selling the puppy. I learned this one the hard way. After my children and family fell in love with a puppy at a local, reputable pet store, I had many questions for the sales clerk about how easily the puppy could be house broken. A puppy making messes all over the house is just not something that I can deal with a few times let alone for months of house breaking.

I was assured by the clerk that the breed was very intelligent and able to be crate trained in a matter of three days. To make a long story short, $1,500 and 9 months later the puppy still requires constant supervision and cannot be a complete part of the family due to our inability to house break him. Research conducted after the purchase revealed that the breed was inherently stubborn and in some cases unable to be house broken despite all attempts.

So, instead of relying on biased sources, turn to the library and people who own that particular breed of puppy or have owned one in the past. If you know someone who has relinquished a purebred puppy of the breed that you are considering for a fraction of the cost that they paid for it or for free, you need to ask them some serious and pointed questions before deciding to invest in that particular breed of puppy. Here are the most important questions that you need answered before purchasing a puppy or puppies:

1. What is the temperament like? 2. What is the mature size and weight? 3. Are they good with children? 4. What are their indigenous health problems? 5. How long do they live? 6. How much do they shed? 7. How much do they eat? 8. How trainable are they? 9. Can they be easily house broken? 10. Do they require a lot of grooming? 11. How noisy are they? 12. How protective are they? 13. Do they require any special care or management? 14. Are they good with other dogs and animals?

Now all you need to do is match the answers of these questions with your family's needs. Choose wisely, and you will have chosen a best friend of a lifetime, a dog that will truly be a joy to have and a treasured member of the family.

About the author:
Written by Randy Myers.
Find more puppy articles, tips and tricks at my website: Wise Puppy http://www.WisePuppy.com .

View the original article here

Comment on Crate Training A Puppy Or Adult Dog by Dog Obedience Schools

Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.

The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy’s den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.

When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.

Giving the pup special “treats” is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog’s purpose for the crate is that it becomes his ?den? you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.

A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den – a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.

Always feed the pup/dog?s regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.

To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you?re having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.

Normally a puppy follows a very definite ?potty pattern?: when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.

The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.

With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:

Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her ?potty area?. Right from the start I began repeating ?Quickly, quickly, quickly?, so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.

Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating ?Quickly, quickly, quickly?, and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.

Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten ? back outside. Family social hour ? back outside.

This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn?t have to clean up a single ?accident? with either animal.

At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.

If you work, don’t expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe ?chewy? items. Better safe than sorry.

Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.

Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their ?den?, their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog?s private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.

Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it?s a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.

Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy’s behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.

Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you?re at work and then crated again all night, he?s definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can?t control their functions for longer periods.

If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he?s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog?s confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you?ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he?s learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you?re certain that your dog doesn?t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don?t give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you?ve progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven?t done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!

Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.

Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.

About the author:
Anne Pottinger publishes http://www.4petsonline.coma pet and domestic animal website with a difference. The site contains hundreds of pages of pet information and advice as well as many humorous and often poignant articles. She?s always available to answer pet and domestic animal related questions

Technorati Tags: adult dog, dogs, training a dog, crate training, training, dog training, John Hocking, dog-training-advice.com

You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

View the original article here